Monday, 25 July 10.2 miles, 7:10
Brewer's Lupine
Chelsea was feeling much better this morning (but still coughing) and said she was ready for a full day of hiking. Today was a day of lakes. We set out at about 8:30 and immediately made a six hundred foot climb to Island Pass. There was some snow and the pass was broad and quite attractive with some small tarns, our first lakes of the day. We then made a long flower-filled descent to the exquisite Thousand Island Lake. True to its name it was dotted with uncountable tiny islands and islets. Behind it loomed snow-spattered Banner Peak. We moved on and soon met the two women who had passed our Rush Creek campsite, but now they were headed the wrong way. One had injured her knee on the snow and they had decided to take the Pacific Crest Trail as an easier and less snowy alternative route to Red’s Meadow. For most of its length the John Muir Trail coincides with the PCT. This was one exception as the PCT branched off just as we reached Thousand Island Lake.
Garnet Lake to the PCT ridge
As we proceeded southward over occasional snowfields we passed tiny Emerald lake on our left and even tinier Ruby lake on our right. We bumped over a small knoll and enjoyed delightful views as the trail wrapped around the northeast end of Garnet Lake. Despite being named for red gems, both Ruby and Garnet Lakes were of the vividest blue. As we approached the outlet of Garnet Lake we had a view across the valley to the ridge that carries the PCT. We crossed a fine bridge over the outlet of Garnet Lake and as we tracked along the opposite shore I spied a duck, probably a mallard, bobbing on the chilly waves. Close behind her trailed six tiny young. She was not terribly far offshore and was headed in the same direction as us so we got to enjoy her company for several minutes. Eventually, our route turned away from the lake and we bade our duck-friends farewell. From there we climbed up about four hundred feet over snowfields and then a long eleven hundred foot descent brought us to Shadow Lake where I caught a quick glimpse of a Mountain Bluebird as she hurried by. Lastly, a six hundred foot climb of wide switchbacks brought us to Rosalie Lake.
Rosalie Lake
This was our last lake of the day and our camp for the evening. Dave, our neighbor from last night, arrived later and is tented across the outlet stream from us. The lake is tiny and lovely, bordered on half its shore by a low, rocky ridge. I swam briefly in its not-quite-frigid waters, to the great amazement of some Arizonans that were also camping here. It was refreshing but did little to remove the nasty residue of the water-proof sunblock I’ve been using. I haven’t been able to get the sunblock off even with soap and my small washcloth so each day I accumulate a new layer of waxy goo that attracts and adheres the dust that I kick up as I walk. I feel like a giant, dirty crayon. Tomorrow’s destination will be Red’s Meadow. I am hoping for a hot shower to dissolve this mess!
